Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

BUNGA MAWAR DAN MELATI dari PURO PAKUALAMAN (Rose and Jasmin from Puro Pakualaman)

Author: Hajar Pamadhi & B.Widharyanto, 2010. 71pgs. (Indonesian and English). Hardcover
Publisher: Pusta Studi Pendidikan Kearifan Lokal Suwaardi Suryaningrat, Pura Pakualaman & Paguyuban Trah Pakualaman Hudyana, Jakarta

This booklet delineates a series of doctrinal guidelines, teachings, and moral injunctions imparted by Pakualam I to his descendants. Among its symbolic expositions is the interpretation of the rose and jasmine flowers, which hold ritual significance in ceremonies of birth and other pivotal occasions. These precepts, encapsulated within the epistle Tajasalutin preserved in the Puro Pakualaman Library collection, articulate principles of citizenry and communal responsibility. In addition to ritual symbolism, the text encompasses broader philosophical reflections, including ancestral teachings on the values of life, devotion to Indonesia as the homeland, and the transmission of cultural heritage. It further incorporates biographical accounts of successive rulers, from Pakualam I through Pakualam IX, thereby situating the teachings within a dynastic continuum. The booklet also provides meticulous descriptions of the artistic traditions cultivated at Puro Pakualaman. These include the court dances, the distinctive Pakualaman batik, ceremonial regalia such as the grand umbrella, prescribed dress codes, and didactic lessons on leadership. Collectively, these elements underscore the integration of aesthetic expression, moral instruction, and civic devotion within the Pakualaman legacy.

BUNGA PALEM DARI SABU (PALM BLOSSOMS OF SAVU)

Author: Genevieve Duggan, 2010, 48pg. (Indonesian & English). Softcover
Publisher: Himpunan Wastraprema, Jakarta

Savu Society is classified as bilinial and recognizes localized patrilinial descent group or clans as well as two matrilinial descent lines or moieties (hubi) decendent from two sisters. Hiubi means literally blossom of the palmtree. The woven cloths women produced throughout time form the fabric of Savu Society. They are of the ikat style, which refers to the tie-dye technique used for obtaining a pattern. Woven cloths reflect the essential role played by women in the society, and moreover by the maternal line. It is not possible to understand the weaving traditions of Savu without knowledge of the unique social structure of the island.

BUNGA RAMPAI WASTRA BALI (ANTHOLOGY OF BALINESE TEXTILES) – Catalog

Author: Essays by I Made Bandem, A.A. Muter, and Ms. Ratmini Soedjatmoko, 1993. 80pg. (Indonesian). Softcover.
Publisher: Himpunan Wastraprema, Jakarta

The catalog was produced to accompany an exhibition organized in 1993 by the Himpunan Pecinta Kain Batik dan Tenun—the Association of Indonesian Batik and Textile Enthusiasts (Himpunan Wastraprema)—which presented a curated selection of textiles drawn from the private collections of its members.

BUSANA KERATON SURAKARTA HADININGRAT (COURT DRESS FROM THE KERATON OF SURAKARTA HADININGRAT)

Author: B.R.A Mooryati Soedibyo, 2003, 140pg. (Indonesian). Softcover
Publisher: Gramedia Grasindo, Jakarta

This volume was authored by a princess of the Keraton Surakarta Hadiningrat, whose lineage is deeply rooted in Javanese royalty. Beyond her aristocratic heritage, she is also the proprietor of the renowned jamu enterprise, Mustika Ratu, a brand synonymous with traditional Indonesian herbal medicine. The book offers a meticulous documentation of the diverse courtly attire historically worn within the palace of Solo. Significantly, it constitutes the first publication to present court dress accompanied by color plates and archival photographs of her ancestors. In addition to its sartorial focus, the work curates an extensive collection of Javanese regalia, encompassing jewelry and elaborate coiffures for both male and female courtiers. These adornments are systematically classified according to rank, position, and hierarchical status within the keraton, thereby illuminating the intricate codes of representation and identity embedded in Javanese court culture.

BUTTERFLIES AND PHOENIXES. Chinese Inspirations In Indonesian Textile Arts.

Author: Judi Knight-Achjadi & Asmoro Damais, 2005, 195pg. (English). Softcover.
Publisher: Mitra Museum Indonesia, Jakarta

This volume has undergone two separate editions: the first was issued by Mitra Museum Indonesia, while a subsequent edition—distinguished by a redesigned cover—was published in Singapore by Marshal Cavendish. The opening chapter, authored by Judi Achjadi, provides a contextual introduction to the historical and cultural significance of the Silk Road and the aesthetic phenomenon of Chinoiserie. The second section examines the profound influence of Chinese visual culture on batik, particularly as manifested through symbolic motifs and iconographic traditions. The concluding portion of the book turns to ceremonial and domestic textiles, presenting an analysis of bridal garments, altar frontals, handkerchiefs, and the distinctive forms of sarung and kain panjang, thereby situating these cloths withꓔꓔꓔin broader socio-cultural and ritual frameworks.

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