Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

WHEN CHINA RULED THE SEAS. The Treasure Fleet of the Dragom Throne, 1405-1433

Author: Louise Levathes, 1994. 235pgs. (English). Softcover
Publisher: Oxford University Press, USA

This volume, first published in 1994, offers a widely acclaimed account of the Ming dynasty’s maritime ascendancy under Zheng He. Centered on the seven grand expeditions commissioned by the Yongle Emperor, it situates China’s naval supremacy decades before Europe’s Age of Discovery. The narrative highlights the construction of immense “treasure ships,” multi-masted vessels that traversed the South China Sea and Indian Ocean, reaching East Africa and the Persian Gulf. These voyages, designed less for conquest than for diplomacy and tribute extraction, projected imperial authority while facilitating exchanges of luxury goods. Their abrupt cessation—prompted by fiscal constraints, northern threats, and Confucian hostility toward commerce—marked China’s retreat into isolation. Levathes frames this moment as a pivotal historical juncture, underscoring how near China came to global preeminence before turning inward. Her account, grounded in Ming chronicles, eyewitness testimony, and international sources, avoids speculative claims and remains anchored in scholarly consensus. Drawing on her background with National Geographic, she combines technical detail on shipbuilding with vivid depictions of court politics and regional encounters, producing a narrative accessible to general readers. While academic audiences may find the work more evocative than analytical, and note its omission of archaeological findings since the 1990s, it remains one of the most comprehensive introductions to Zheng He’s voyages for non-specialists. When China Ruled the Seas endures as a compelling study of China’s brief outward gaze, capturing both the grandeur of its maritime reach and the poignancy of its subsequent withdrawal. It is recommended for readers of maritime history, Asian studies, and global geopolitics.

WILD LIVES. Horseback Cultures from Idaho to Indonesia

Author: Sylvie Lebreton, Photography: TIBO, 2003. 239pgs. (English). Hardcover
Publisher: Hachette Illustrated UK, Octopus Publishing Group, London

This large‑format photographic compendium constitutes a visual ethnography of equestrian lifeways across eleven distinct societies. It traces the manifold ways in which horses are embedded within social structures, ritual practices, and ecological adaptations. The volume juxtaposes the working routines of Idaho cowboys with the nomadic horsemen of Mongolia, the ceremonial riders of Jordan and Andalusia, the tribal equestrian groups of Morocco, and the ritualized performances of Sumba horsemen in Indonesia. Comprising more than 300 previously unpublished photographs, the work documents not merely the outward spectacle of horsemanship but the quotidian rhythms of subsistence, the embodied gestures of labor, and the ceremonial enactments through which communities articulate identity and continuity. The ethnographic lens foregrounds how local geographies—arid steppes, desert margins, mountain pastures, and island terrains—condition equestrian practices and sustain reciprocal survival between rider and animal. The imagery is immersive and meticulously composed, eschewing exoticizing tropes in favor of authentic representation. Each culture is treated with interpretive respect, allowing the horse to emerge as both a utilitarian partner and a symbolic mediator of social cohesion, cosmology, and status. While the accompanying text is intentionally light in historical or technical exposition, the book succeeds as a cultural archive: a testament to the horse as a living conduit of tradition, resilience, and human‑animal interdependence.

WOMEN AND POLITICS IN ASIA. A Springboard for Democracy.

Author: Andrea Fleschenberg & Claudia Derichs (Eds), 2012. 173pgs. (English) Softcover
Publisher: Institut of Southeast Asian Studies (ISEAS), Singapore

The participation of women in politics has become a central theme in contemporary discussions of democratic governance and social equity. Historically, women’s political engagement was constrained by structural barriers, cultural norms, and institutionalized discrimination. However, the gradual expansion of suffrage rights, coupled with broader movements for gender equality, has significantly altered the landscape of political representation. Women’s presence in legislative bodies, executive offices, and political parties has not only diversified the composition of governance but has also introduced new perspectives on policy-making. Research indicates that female politicians often prioritize issues such as healthcare, education, and social welfare, thereby broadening the scope of political agendas. Moreover, the visibility of women in leadership positions challenges entrenched stereotypes and contributes to reshaping societal expectations regarding gender roles.

WOODBURY & PAGE. PHOTOGRAPHERS JAVA.

Author: Steven Wachlin, 1994. 239pgs. (English). Hardcover.
Publisher: KITLV Press, Leiden, Netherlands

The volume constitutes an indispensable and meticulously researched historical monograph, documenting the trajectory of the foremost nineteenth-century photographic enterprise in the Dutch East Indies. The opening section offers a richly detailed account of the firm’s founders, Walter Bentley Woodbury and James Page, tracing their arrival in Batavia in 1857, the formidable technical challenges posed by wet-collodion photography in tropical climates, and the gradual evolution of the studio through 1908. The subsequent section presents approximately 175 superbly reproduced plates, encompassing sweeping landscapes, monumental Javanese architecture, regal portraiture, and quotidian colonial street scenes. This visual corpus is curated with museum-level precision, rendering the work unrivaled in archival depth. The monograph not only provides lucid biographical trajectories of the photographers but also situates their oeuvre within the broader cultural and historical milieu of nineteenth-century Southeast Asia. While the scholarly rigor and density of the historical analysis will undoubtedly appeal to academic audiences and specialists in colonial visual culture, casual readers in search of a light narrative may find the exhaustive breakdown of studio transitions and technical processes demanding. Nevertheless, the volume’s combination of archival comprehensiveness and aesthetic presentation ensures its enduring value as both a research resource and a work of art historical significance.

WORLD Textiles. A Concise History

Author: Mary Schoeser, 2003. 224pgs. (English). Softc. To the techno techtiles of todayover
Publisher: Thames and Hudson-World of Art, London

The history of textiles, more than that of any other artifact, embodies the narrative of human ingenuity. From the earliest needles dating back approximately twenty-five millennia to the advanced techno-textiles of the present day, textiles have remained fundamental to human existence, universally cherished, esteemed, and imbued with cultural significance. Mary Schoeser’s groundbreaking volume offers a comprehensive chronological survey of textiles across the globe, spanning prehistory to contemporary practice. It examines the processes by which textiles are produced, the materials from which they are fashioned, their societal functions, and the diverse meanings and values ascribed to them. World Textiles serves as an indispensable introduction to this vast and compelling field, appealing to makers, designers, textile and fashion professionals, collectors, and students alike.

Page 150 of 151